In the pantheon of the Jura’s cult producers,
Stéphane Tissot leads the charge. Stéphane is universally praised across the highly divided landscape of wine critics, no matter their aversion or partiality to biodynamics and natural winemaking. How many producers can you name that are glowingly admired by critics as diverse as Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, Rajat Parr, Alice Feiring, and Pascaline Lepeltier?
Stéphane and his wife Bénédicte and their little team of 15 brave souls farm some 35 hectares of the scant 2,000 hectares under vine in the entire Jura, a region that once rivalled Burgundy for volume but saw it’s 28,000 ha chipped away at first by railways to Languedoc, then Phylloxera, then the Great War, then WWII, until it was down to only 800 ha by the 50’s and a much higher demand for their world famous Comté fromage).
Even with so little land under vine and in such an inhospitably rainy and mercurial climate, Jura came back to the main stage, at least for somms and French wine nerds, largely because of people like Stéphane Tissot, Pierre Overnoy, and Jean-François Ganevat’s innovations. Take for example Stéphane’s insanely dense plantings, using selection massale to increase his vineyards to 27,000 vines per hectare, with each trunk head individually staked, forcing intense competition between the vines, but then pruning each vine down to an eye-watering two or three clusters per vine! Compare that to a standard of 3,000-10,000 vines/ha pruned to 8-20 clusters per vine. It is extremely unusual but the concentration in his wines speaks to the brilliance behind this daring decision.
If there is a wine the Jura region is known for,
Tissot makes it: Vin Jaune, Savignin, Chardonnay, Crémant, Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir—and often several different cuvées of it, each limited to some small particular slope or soil variation. In fact Stéphane is credited with being the first to move to single parcel bottlings of Chardonnay and Vin Jaune. All of these he makes with a masterful minimalism that expresses terroir with remarkable precision and nuance while judicious applications of French oak, amphorae, and
ouillage show the signature of his own hand and styling decisions. You’re left with a sense that this is a true liquid form of art, a collaboration between Stéphane and Mother Nature.
NV Crémant du Jura
NV BBF Blanc de Blancs
2020 Patchwork Chardonnay
2020 Rose Massale Chardonnay
2019 Les Graviers Chardonnay
2019 La Mailloche Chardonnay
2018 Savignin
2020 DD Rouge
2020 Poulsard Vieilles Vignes
2020 Singulier Trousseau
2015 Les Bruyères Vin Jaune
2015 Château-Chalon Vin Jaune
Arbois AOC
Tissot’s Crémants are out of this world, jousting with Champagne from a whole different plane of character, generally fatter and more opulent. The interplay between the dry, mineral complexity and rich generosity of fruit make every glass its own journey. Layered aromas of raw honey and baked red apple lead to flavors of tangy yellow fruit, crisp apple, toasted almond, and quince on the persistent finish.
Arbois AOC
A single varietal Crémant du Jura revealing in sparkling form Stéphane Tissot’s masterful grasp of Chardonnay. From 25 year old biodynamically farmed vines planted selection massale from a 1.3 hectare plot made up of 60% Triassic clays and 40% Bajocian limestone. BBF is a blend of the 2015 vintage at 75% which aged 14 months in 228 liter barrels, as well as the 2016 vintage for 25% of this wine which was aged for 3 months in tanks. After bottling, the wine is aged for 4 years on the lees before disgorgement, bottled brut nature (zero dosage).
Arbois AOC
A blend of multiple blocks (25 years or older), this is Stéphane’s opening salvo for those who want to tango with his chardonnay before committing to his single parcel bottlings—sure to convert any skeptic.
“Aromas strongly suggest tart lemon zest, toasted coconut, roasted almonds, sour green olives, cardamom, yellow flowers and sweet marzipan. Suspend all expectations of “Chardonnay-ness.” The startling bouquet of tropical, spicy and savory tones — as well as the interplay of zestiness and creaminess on the palate — makes this is a multidimensional wine. The joyride of acidity from this wine is like a rollercoaster, it twists and turns with each sip, and leaves you salivating for another sip on the finish.” - Kevin Day
Arbois AOC
Tissot’s newest cuvée!
Despite its name, this Chardonnay Rose is in fact a white wine. Its name refers to the unique mutation of Chardonnay that comprises this wine. These berries are entirely pink, born from a mutation of Tissot's own Chardonnay vines. Using selection massale encourages genetic diversity and once this mutation appeared, Stéphane began planting its shoots year after year. This wine is derived from a blend of Chardonnay Rose now growing in five of Tissot's most famous parcels and representing the three main soils of Jura:
• La Mailloche, the soil of which consists of a thick layer of silts and decalcifying clays (clay resulting from the limestone rock dissolution by water) which covers a base of gryphite limestones dating from 201-174 million years ago, rich in fossil oyster shells (the gryphites) gathered during the period when shallow seas greater agitation with a better environment oxygenation leading to carbonates precipitation
• Curon & Valière, with soil consisting of a rocky scree thick layer coming from the limestone cornices dating from the Bajocian, Middle Jurassic period (174-145 million years old) characterized by the presence of a shallow warm sea dotted with islands. This layer sits above the Lias marls, widespread in Arbois vineyards, dating to the Lower Jurassic (201-174 million years) when the region was covered with a shallow, oxygen-poor sea.
• Les Bruyères & Sauvagny, where a thick layer of wash silt (between 10 and 30cm) covers the Rhetian schist marls formed in the shallow lagoons that occupied the Jura between 252-201 million years ago (Triassic geological period).
The 2020 vintage offers a very fresh and intensely fragrant nose with creamy and slightly toasted notes flirting with aromas of white flowers, toasted hazelnuts, ear of wheat, and a hint of ripe pear and coriander. The palate is lively and fresh with a lemony and slightly
Arbois AOC
As the plot’s name suggests, this southwest facing 1.3ha parcel is covered in a limestone heavy gravel. The Chardonnay vines planted between 1952 and 2002 (the latter being Stéphane’s own selection massale when he was concentrating his densities). Fermented and aged in French oak barriques for 16 months (1/3 new). The result is rich in fruit and minerality with a full, elegant and lively mouthfeel. A bottle to lay down for 10-20 years that will also drink beautifully now. Decant one hour, serve at 10-12ºC.
Arbois AOC
One of Tissot's most famous vineyards, this incredibly distinct Chardonnay charges in with a pronounced mineral and spice aroma with a touch of smoke and salt and a beguiling host of unique aromas that are difficult to do justice to with simple tasting notes. Clocking in at 14.5% and aged 24 months in French oak barriques (20% new), this wine is built to age. Bright lemon and apple with a slightly rounder presence on the back of the nose. The mouth feel is ample without any over-oaked heaviness. Just powerful flavour and precision. Easily a Chardonnay for Burgundy lovers, but with a distinctly Jura presence that is hard to explain and needs to be experienced. Drink now or age 10-20 years. Decant one hour, serve at 10-12ºC.
Arbois AOC
Tissot’s Savignin is a mysterious wine that eludes easy description. From approximately 30 year old vines in clayey-calcareous biodynamic plots, manually harvested, destemmed, and gently pressed gently, this Savaging ferments in old oak with native yeasts and ages for over two years sous voile, maturing under the same unique floating layer of yeast they call flor in Jerez’s Fino and Manzanilla sherries. This is how vin jaune is made. Vin Jaune only earns the title, however, when it reaches 6 years without the flor dying, a distinction in only the best sherries of the same style. Should the flor dissipate earlier, it is bottled as Savignin and we receive this divine delight, less nutty and bruised apple like than a full fledged Vin Jaune but in many ways a superior drink for combining that profound dynamism with a fresher profile. One of my favourite wines on Earth, Tissot’s Savignins are a journey to drink, unfolding a whole symphony of flavours and expressions from the top of the bottle to the bottom. Drink now or age 10-20 years. Decant one hour, serve at 8-12ºC.
Arbois AOC
The ‘DD’ is Stéphane’s tribute to his father, Andre (‘DD’), a throwback to the pre-Stéphane days when the red wines of Jura were not often single varietal affairs but blends of their three autochthonous reds. The ‘DD’ is a delicious blend of Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir in equal parts. Extremely long and gentle maceration gives the wine this tender yet robust structure of broad tannins. It’s such a wonderful and surprising texture for such a light wine. The fruit is lively and joyous, showing bright cherry and raspberry and crunchy plum over an ozone-like, ferrous minerality.
Arbois AOC
A profoundly perfumed and light red wine, bordering on rosé on account of Poulsard’s thin skins and the age of these vines making that skin even thinner. This wine drinks so lifted and red fruited and expressive. Strawberry, morello cherry, and raspberry notes, with a hint of spice, and gentle oxidation. Tingly, fresh, and well poised on the palate with mild tannins that suit the nature of this wine so well. This is your red wine for summer fish dishes or charcuterie on the deck. Enjoy lightly chilled.
Arbois AOC
The Jura’s fullest bodied red variety, Tissot’s expression shows a profound purity that is just intoxicating. With blackberry and brandied cherry notes amplified by peppercorn and a touch of oak spice and lovely floral flourishes, this Trousseau unfolds layer after layer in the glass. Its lithe structure gives it an ample palate and the finish lingers long and gentle. Hard to imagine another light bodied wine that holds in the mouth so well. This wine is fully destemmed so the tannin is all skins, bright and bold with just enough acidity to give that Tissot electric sensation on the tongue. To drink or to age?.. that is the question.
Arbois AOC - 620ml
A benchmark example of Jura’s iconic Vin Jaune. Savagnin is fermented then aged a minimum of six years in old barrels without any top ups. As a result, around a third of the wine's volume evaporates and as that ouillage increases, a complex layer of yeast flor forms above the wine, inhibiting greater oxidation and giving the wine its unique and highly sought character. The result is a powerful, concentrated, complex wine with profound minerality and a much higher acidity than fino sherry, showing characteristic aromas of nuts and dried fruit and bruised apple and aged cheese, with ageing potential north of a century.
Tissot was the first to bottle single vineyard Vin Jaune. This indescribably nutty, saline wine comes with a dazzling acid profile that frames this pure expression of vineyard and region — this being Tissot’s prized Bruyères vineyard. This bottling is a rare bird and one of the Jura's most sought-after cuveés each year.
Château Chalon AOC - 620ml
Everything mentioned above for Tissot’s Bruyères Vin Jaune stands for this cuvée as well, however Château-Chalon is its own sub-region, an AOC specifically for the Jura’s finest Vin Jaune from the area around the Château, and is the tête de cuvée of Stéphane’s Savignins. This bewildering wine is the definition of unicorn juice!
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